With its return from a summer hiatus, Byblos cranks up the island’s flavour quotient many notches. Behnaz Sanjana drops by to sample its new-season menu.
Stomach rumbling. Heels clackety-clack on the winding concrete pathway. I’ll be honest; it’s a bit of a walk making your way to Byblos from the plush indoors of the Four Seasons Hotel Bahrain Bay. Down a flight of stairs, taking in a quick look over the picturesque waterside, and into the cool confines of Byblos I go.
As I figure out how to park myself and my burgeoning tote onto the chair, a stool appears beside me, as if by magic. I look up to see a steward with a genie’s grin and remember that I’m amid the thoughtful hospitality of the Four Seasons, no less.
After the commotion of the meet-and-greet at our table settles, I have the opportunity to take in my surroundings. Byblos is a glass house, with a full-frontal view of the glittering bay, water taxis gliding across its surface. The cleanly lined, all-white interiors are punctuated with cyan blue cushions, criss-cross wooden panelling in the recessed ceiling, the forest-green of the central olive tree and mellow-hued glass bottles that house gleaming rice lights. Strums of the oud mixed with contemporary beats add to the elegant vibe.
First arrives the amuse-bouche. An itsy-bitsy kunafa nest filled with Labneh Makdous: salty labneh spiked with baby eggplant pickle and walnuts. The micro-petal garnish adds to its cuteness. Palates woken up sufficiently, we are ready to do full justice to the ensuing fare.
Next up are Sujuk Cigars – much larger than the average cigar – and sesame-crusted Kaak Asrouniye – much daintier than their usual dimensions. Both look temptingly crunchy in their own right. I dunk a cigar into the accompanying tomato-sesame dip and let the meaty, cheesy filling flood my taste buds. Just as I’m mid-chomp, Chef Tony El Khoury joins us at the table. What better company than the captain of the Byblos kitchen to walk us through the flavours of the evening! As we reach for the bag-shaped kaak, Chef Tony reminisces about afternoons spent munching on this local favourite growing up in Zahlé, Lebanon’s culinary cradle. No sooner would the kids hear the horn of the kaak vendor, than they would swarm his trusty wooden box for the warm, fragrant discs of street bread. With that vivid scene playing in our minds, we happily dig in, scooping up homemade zaatar-mint-basil labneh with the kaak.
I don’t get much time to admire my good-looking glass of Cider & Spice – a golden infusion of apple, star anise and cinnamon decorated with mint leaves and a delicate sprig of Baby’s Breath. Because all eyes soon lock on the dish that oozes main-character energy – the Byblos Black Pearl. An ode to both Lebanon and Bahrain, this charcoal-hued hummus encircles a shock of verdant greens and cherry tomatoes. Chef Tony recommends we sample it with the accompanying cuttlefish sticks. My mind races at the first bite, trying to place each distinct taste that makes up the wonderfully cohesive flavour profile of this outlandish creation. While we polish off the platter, we get the inside scoop on this recipe that took months to perfect. What gives it that intriguing colour? Chef Tony’s three reveals make me go: but of course, how clever, and genius! I have been sworn to secrecy, so I won’t spill the garbanzo beans here, but I dare you to figure out the secret to this dark dish yourself. Hint: it’s so earthy-umami.
Grabbing our attention next is the Makanek: small, spiced sausages that are big on taste. They sit surrounded by sautéed mushroom and julienned onion in a lemon-butter sauce. The spiced lamb and beef stuffing of the inch-long sausages gives a distinctively buttery, nutty hint of pine nuts; very moreish.
Mujaddara, the Levantine rice-and-lentil preparation, is referred to as ‘nails of the knees’ in Lebanese households for its nutritional value. Byblos, naturally, had to have a hot take on this signature dish. One that elevates it to five-star status – the addition of succulent lamb shank. Braised for eight hours straight, the meat falls apart at the touch of a fork. The black lentils hold their shape, the ouzi is cooked just right, pickled turnips lend a nice acidity to the gamey flavours and a garnish of fried almonds and onions gives a delightful variation of texture. Too bad we are so many of us at the table. Next time I’m ordering this just for myself.
Sufficiently stuffed with the savouries, it is time to welcome dessert. Chocolate Mille Feuille arrives, but in Lebanese style. The usual pastry sheets are ditched for flakey chocolate layers that hold between them alternating dollops of rich saffron cream and cardamom-laced chocolate. The top is embellished with gold foil and traditional halawa. A delightful creation, indeed. But what knocks my sweet tooth right out of the park is Madlouka Ashta. Starring in order of appearance from the base: toasted bread, snow-white mahalabia, silken clotted cream, glossy baklava sheets strewn with dried rosebud petals, pistachio slivers and gold foil. The slight bitterness of the caramel-moist base offsets the hit of sweet rose. Perfectly balanced flavours; a chef ’s kiss with every bite.
Chef Tony’s playfully experimental menu underlines that a great meal is about more than just luxury or complexity. It’s the respect for individual ingredients and the know-how to bring out their nuances that make for an unforgettable dining experience.
It’s a leisurely, content tap-tapping of my heels as I wal
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